Robbie Greene Base Cabinets January 05th, 2018 - 10:36:54
Once the sub-bases for the lower cabinets are set, I recommend that you install the upper cabinets next as it is just plain easier. Once the wider base cabinets are installed it is harder to work on the narrower upper cabinets. Just measure up from the sub-base to get the top of the cabinets, add the counter thickness, add the space you want between the lower and upper cabinets (typically eighteen inches) and make a pencil mark. That is the bottom of your upper cabinets. Since your sub-base is level, just transfer the upper cabinet mark all along the run and you will have mark to set the bottom of each upper cabinet. Next locate all the wall studs and make a vertical mark using your level that will protrude both above and below the cabinets.
Purchasing Cabinets There are different tiers on purchasing cabinets too. You save money by assembling pre-cut parts from the manufacturer. Since cabinets will be the focal point of your kitchen, you may prefer to have assembled cabinets that are installed by the dealer. The following descriptions will help you make this decision. RTA or Ready-to-Assemble is provided by the cabinet manufacturer. If the manufacturer doesnt incur the labor expense to assemble the cabinet, he will pass this savings on to you. If you are going to use RTA cabinets to cut down on the expenses, you need to find your cabinets at the beginning of your project. You need time to assemble them and ready to install after installing the flooring, painting, papering are complete.
Beginning with base corner cabinets, we have: (1) the symmetrical easy reach -- this cabinet is the same length on each side of the corner and contains either shelves along its rear walls or a carousel with shelves "pie-cut" to accommodate the doors (a center hinge allows opening either the first door or both); (2) the asymmetircal easy reach -- this cabinet is a little shorter on one leg (if it includes a carousel, that diameter will be the length of the cabinets shorter leg); (3) the revolving -- this cabinet is like cabinet #1 but its doors revolve with the carousel shelves; (4) the diagonal-front -- this cabinet allows a full-circle carousel; and (5) the blind -- this cabinet looks like a straight-run cabinet but it extends into the corner along the side of an adjoining cabinet, structure, or appliance thus making its "buried" shelves accessible only from the front door (to allow better use of the "blind" corner cabinet, some manufacturers have cleverly created a cabinet with a first section which, on opening the door, pulls out and pivots to the side to expose roll-out trays which can then move forward to present their contents). Finally, there is a sink base corner cabinet that can be either an "L-shaped" cabinet to hold a butterfly sink or a diagonal-front cabinet with a regular straight-line sink -- a caveat whenever a corner sink cabinet is used: be sure that adequate standing area (for loading and unloading the dishwasher) is created by placing a 12-inch wide regular cabinet between the dishwasher and the corner cabinets side.
Because of the modifications available, these cabinets are not constructed until the order has been placed. As a result, it may take longer to receive these than stock cabinets, but not as long as custom cabinets. The cost of semi-custom cabinets depends greatly on the options you desire. The consumer has a lot of control in determining the style and layout of these cabinets. When choosing cabinets, you want to make sure that you are getting a high quality product at a fair price. Shop around until you find a cabinet retailer that is knowledgeable and experienced.