Mari Ferguson Base Cabinets January 11th, 2018 - 10:53:47
The most important part of buying them is to measure, measure, measure! Measure the length and width of cabinet doors. If you are installing entirely cabinets, measure depth. Measure your ceiling height. Understand that newer houses tend to have higher ceilings; it may be architecturally impossible to support having tall 42 inch cabinets installed in your old kitchen. But dont worry, a solution can be had for all cabinet spaces- as long as you remember to measure properly. Why the emphasis on measurements? Consider the consequences of inaccurate measuring- crookedly hung cabinets, improperly cabinet doors that dont open properly, or worse, you purchased your kitchen cabinets online and now cannot obtain a refund.
Once the sub-bases for the lower cabinets are set, I recommend that you install the upper cabinets next as it is just plain easier. Once the wider base cabinets are installed it is harder to work on the narrower upper cabinets. Just measure up from the sub-base to get the top of the cabinets, add the counter thickness, add the space you want between the lower and upper cabinets (typically eighteen inches) and make a pencil mark. That is the bottom of your upper cabinets. Since your sub-base is level, just transfer the upper cabinet mark all along the run and you will have mark to set the bottom of each upper cabinet. Next locate all the wall studs and make a vertical mark using your level that will protrude both above and below the cabinets.
Special Order Cabinets The upgrade from store cabinets would be ordering them from your local home improvement store or local lumberyard. Quality will be much noticeably higher than stock cabinets, but your options are still somewhat limited as to what you can order. Expect to see laminated interiors in either white or maple color, solid wood drawers and doors, and upgrades such as soft close hinges or soft close drawer slides. These cabinets will come finished and ready to install. Typically, these will be offered in all 3" increments, usually ranging from 12 inches wide to 36 or even 48 inches wide. Doors and drawer fronts may be somewhat customizable in terms of styles and colors, but options are still limited. Still expect 1/2" thick carcasses (the box part of the cabinets) and 1/8" to 1/4" thick cabinet backs.
Stock, or store cabinets, are what you see if you go to a large home improvement store. Each store will typically have a very basic, unfinished cabinet line that is stocked in store and ready to purchase and take home that day. These are usually your cheapest option, but selections are very limited. Most of the time these will need to be finished either by you or by a contractor. Dont expect anything spectacular, these are usually cabinets in their most basic form. Drawer fronts are typically made from glued up strips of wood instead of one single piece of wood. Doors are usually paneled doors instead of raised wood panel doors. The carcasses of the cabinets will typically be cut from particle board, and if there is a back panel it is usually 1/8" hard-board. Countertop fastening brackets will be small, plastic corner brackets with a single screw hole for attaching to the counter.