Gladys Avery Base Cabinets August 17th, 2017 - 05:32:44
Installing cabinets whether in a kitchen, laundry or utility cabinets in a garage, they all have the same basic set of installation requirements. Some simple tools are required and are in most handymans tool pails. Pencils, good carpenters four foot level, tape measure, screw gun, several Quick type C clamps and a chalk line is a great start. If you have the use of a tripod with a builders level (or can rent one for a day) this will speed the work along greatly. Starting at either end of the cabinet set, make a pencil mark four feet above the floor. Now using the four foot level, transfer that mark along the wall to the other end of the cabinet run and make another pencil mark. Measure down to the floor to see if it is four feet above the floor. If it is exactly four feet, then your floor is level. If it is more than four feet then you know the floor slopes down towards that end. If you start the cabinets at that low end you will not be able to keep the cabinets level before you run "into " the floor. If you start at the four foot end that you started with, you will be able to shim the cabinets up so they all remain the same level height above the floor.
Frameless Cabinets will have the doors meeting the other door and will have drawers against other drawers. Looking at the front of the cabinet, you will see only the door or the drawer not the cabinet box itself. 10 x 10 Standard is just that a standard measure meaning 10 foot of base cabinets and 10 foot of wall cabinets. Manufacturers have used this calculation for their standard kitchen cabinets. You can still change this to meet your footage requirements but they will be a special order instead of than the standard measurements.
In planning your kitchen remodeling, the kitchen cabinets will give immediate eye appeal, provide functionality but can also be the biggest cost. Regardless of what your remodel budget is, the cabinet could easily be one half of that expense. As we wander through the cabinet section of the store, it does seem these are just big boxes with doors. Nevertheless we are amazed at the cost. Making cabinets does require skill to have tightly fitted corners and joins. If one part is off, some other part wont fit properly. The type of wood used and the finish on the wood all have a price tag. Nevertheless, you need to get the best cabinets possible for your budget. Here are some ideas on what you can find.
Beginning with base corner cabinets, we have: (1) the symmetrical easy reach -- this cabinet is the same length on each side of the corner and contains either shelves along its rear walls or a carousel with shelves "pie-cut" to accommodate the doors (a center hinge allows opening either the first door or both); (2) the asymmetircal easy reach -- this cabinet is a little shorter on one leg (if it includes a carousel, that diameter will be the length of the cabinets shorter leg); (3) the revolving -- this cabinet is like cabinet #1 but its doors revolve with the carousel shelves; (4) the diagonal-front -- this cabinet allows a full-circle carousel; and (5) the blind -- this cabinet looks like a straight-run cabinet but it extends into the corner along the side of an adjoining cabinet, structure, or appliance thus making its "buried" shelves accessible only from the front door (to allow better use of the "blind" corner cabinet, some manufacturers have cleverly created a cabinet with a first section which, on opening the door, pulls out and pivots to the side to expose roll-out trays which can then move forward to present their contents). Finally, there is a sink base corner cabinet that can be either an "L-shaped" cabinet to hold a butterfly sink or a diagonal-front cabinet with a regular straight-line sink -- a caveat whenever a corner sink cabinet is used: be sure that adequate standing area (for loading and unloading the dishwasher) is created by placing a 12-inch wide regular cabinet between the dishwasher and the corner cabinets side.