Gladys Avery Base Cabinets January 15th, 2018 - 10:33:39
With the upper cabinets mounted go ahead and install the base cabinets in the exact same way. Each cabinet screwed side to side and then to the wall. Once all cabinets have been installed, go ahead and install your counter tops. Back splash work, electrical connections for micro waves or exhaust hoods and their actual installations should all be done before the doors are re-installed. You want to handle the doors gently as they are the major amount of what people actually see. Level the doors, install the drawer and door pulls and your done. Almost all municipalities require a building permit for this type of work as in a kitchen it involves plumbing, electrical, perhaps heating and possible structural changes as well. A garage set of work storage cabinets may not involve any of these items but be safe and ask first.
Installing cabinets whether in a kitchen, laundry or utility cabinets in a garage, they all have the same basic set of installation requirements. Some simple tools are required and are in most handymans tool pails. Pencils, good carpenters four foot level, tape measure, screw gun, several Quick type C clamps and a chalk line is a great start. If you have the use of a tripod with a builders level (or can rent one for a day) this will speed the work along greatly. Starting at either end of the cabinet set, make a pencil mark four feet above the floor. Now using the four foot level, transfer that mark along the wall to the other end of the cabinet run and make another pencil mark. Measure down to the floor to see if it is four feet above the floor. If it is exactly four feet, then your floor is level. If it is more than four feet then you know the floor slopes down towards that end. If you start the cabinets at that low end you will not be able to keep the cabinets level before you run "into " the floor. If you start at the four foot end that you started with, you will be able to shim the cabinets up so they all remain the same level height above the floor.
Beginning with base corner cabinets, we have: (1) the symmetrical easy reach -- this cabinet is the same length on each side of the corner and contains either shelves along its rear walls or a carousel with shelves "pie-cut" to accommodate the doors (a center hinge allows opening either the first door or both); (2) the asymmetircal easy reach -- this cabinet is a little shorter on one leg (if it includes a carousel, that diameter will be the length of the cabinets shorter leg); (3) the revolving -- this cabinet is like cabinet #1 but its doors revolve with the carousel shelves; (4) the diagonal-front -- this cabinet allows a full-circle carousel; and (5) the blind -- this cabinet looks like a straight-run cabinet but it extends into the corner along the side of an adjoining cabinet, structure, or appliance thus making its "buried" shelves accessible only from the front door (to allow better use of the "blind" corner cabinet, some manufacturers have cleverly created a cabinet with a first section which, on opening the door, pulls out and pivots to the side to expose roll-out trays which can then move forward to present their contents). Finally, there is a sink base corner cabinet that can be either an "L-shaped" cabinet to hold a butterfly sink or a diagonal-front cabinet with a regular straight-line sink -- a caveat whenever a corner sink cabinet is used: be sure that adequate standing area (for loading and unloading the dishwasher) is created by placing a 12-inch wide regular cabinet between the dishwasher and the corner cabinets side.
Cost Each type of cabinet has a general budget that you can expect. Below are more details on each type and the expected price range for 10 x 10 standard cabinets. RTA cabinets are the least expensive. The frameless box and doors will be ¾ inch melamine and the drawers will have metal sides. Since you will be doing the installation, the cost of these is very low at approximately $70.00 per linear foot or $700.00 for your 10 x 10 standard. Stock cabinets have a major price increase with improved materials and they will be delivered and installed. The wood is generally ¾ inch hard board face frame and ½ inch particle board sides with hard board framed doors. Since you have a few more choices on finishes or stains, the price can range from $360 to $432 per linear foot or $3,600 to $4,320 for the standard measurements.