Deanne Fields Base Cabinets January 03rd, 2018 - 14:32:06
Place two C clamps in the first cabinet, lift the second cabinet into place and using the C clamps, firmly clamp the front face stile of the first cabinet to the second. The combination of the wall furring strip and the two clamps will allow you to let go and do the work of affixing the second cabinet to the wall and to each other. Making sure that the front faces are perfectly flush with each other and the heights are perfectly matched, standard practice is to pre-drill a screw hole behind the door hinge. Using drywall screws again, insert a screw in the hole making sure the screw will not penetrate through the stile of the other cabinet (too long). Place one screw behind each hinge. Now fasten the second cabinet to the wall and then release the clamps. This same scenario repeats itself until you reach the end of the cabinets. You may have spaces where a window occurs but your furring strip will assure that both sections are mounted at the same height.
With the upper cabinets mounted go ahead and install the base cabinets in the exact same way. Each cabinet screwed side to side and then to the wall. Once all cabinets have been installed, go ahead and install your counter tops. Back splash work, electrical connections for micro waves or exhaust hoods and their actual installations should all be done before the doors are re-installed. You want to handle the doors gently as they are the major amount of what people actually see. Level the doors, install the drawer and door pulls and your done. Almost all municipalities require a building permit for this type of work as in a kitchen it involves plumbing, electrical, perhaps heating and possible structural changes as well. A garage set of work storage cabinets may not involve any of these items but be safe and ask first.
Why Bathroom Linen Cabinets? Huge homes and apartments have inbuilt storage space for the household items in every room. The bathrooms are well planned and designed to accommodate the toiletries such as soap, towels, comb, linen, and other accessories. If not in the bathroom, a storage rack or shelf is built somewhere in the passage adjoining the toilets or passages leading to the bathroom. But what about smaller apartments and houses where the number of people are more and the space is quite less?
Beginning with base corner cabinets, we have: (1) the symmetrical easy reach -- this cabinet is the same length on each side of the corner and contains either shelves along its rear walls or a carousel with shelves "pie-cut" to accommodate the doors (a center hinge allows opening either the first door or both); (2) the asymmetircal easy reach -- this cabinet is a little shorter on one leg (if it includes a carousel, that diameter will be the length of the cabinets shorter leg); (3) the revolving -- this cabinet is like cabinet #1 but its doors revolve with the carousel shelves; (4) the diagonal-front -- this cabinet allows a full-circle carousel; and (5) the blind -- this cabinet looks like a straight-run cabinet but it extends into the corner along the side of an adjoining cabinet, structure, or appliance thus making its "buried" shelves accessible only from the front door (to allow better use of the "blind" corner cabinet, some manufacturers have cleverly created a cabinet with a first section which, on opening the door, pulls out and pivots to the side to expose roll-out trays which can then move forward to present their contents). Finally, there is a sink base corner cabinet that can be either an "L-shaped" cabinet to hold a butterfly sink or a diagonal-front cabinet with a regular straight-line sink -- a caveat whenever a corner sink cabinet is used: be sure that adequate standing area (for loading and unloading the dishwasher) is created by placing a 12-inch wide regular cabinet between the dishwasher and the corner cabinets side.