Anastasia Burns Base Cabinets January 11th, 2018 - 10:53:04
Place two C clamps in the first cabinet, lift the second cabinet into place and using the C clamps, firmly clamp the front face stile of the first cabinet to the second. The combination of the wall furring strip and the two clamps will allow you to let go and do the work of affixing the second cabinet to the wall and to each other. Making sure that the front faces are perfectly flush with each other and the heights are perfectly matched, standard practice is to pre-drill a screw hole behind the door hinge. Using drywall screws again, insert a screw in the hole making sure the screw will not penetrate through the stile of the other cabinet (too long). Place one screw behind each hinge. Now fasten the second cabinet to the wall and then release the clamps. This same scenario repeats itself until you reach the end of the cabinets. You may have spaces where a window occurs but your furring strip will assure that both sections are mounted at the same height.
Typically, stocked cabinets are offered in extremely limited sizes, and while most cabinets are offered in 3" increments, some stock cabinets may only be available in 6" increments. This is important when it comes to the overall layout of your kitchen remodel, because stock cabinets are mass-produced to the same size and specifications with no regards as to where they go. You will usually need fillers and end panels to create a finished look when using stock cabinets. The end of each cabinet that is exposed, on both the upper and the base cabinets, will need to be finished to match the front of the cabinets. This will include cutting and fitting finished panels onto the cabinet carcass itself. Keep in mind that if you are running your cabinets wall to wall, then finishing the ends is not important since the wall will hide the ends.
Once the sub-bases for the lower cabinets are set, I recommend that you install the upper cabinets next as it is just plain easier. Once the wider base cabinets are installed it is harder to work on the narrower upper cabinets. Just measure up from the sub-base to get the top of the cabinets, add the counter thickness, add the space you want between the lower and upper cabinets (typically eighteen inches) and make a pencil mark. That is the bottom of your upper cabinets. Since your sub-base is level, just transfer the upper cabinet mark all along the run and you will have mark to set the bottom of each upper cabinet. Next locate all the wall studs and make a vertical mark using your level that will protrude both above and below the cabinets.
But what do you do when you are fitting cabinets between two walls? Well in this case the cabinet dealer can supply you with filler pieces to take up any large gaps that will eventually occur by using cabinets that are built within 2 inch increments. These cabinet filler pieces can be cut to fit the remaining gap relatively well. The main disadvantage with stock kitchen cabinets is the aforementioned incremental sizing but also the quality. Although as with anything the lower to mid range priced stock cabinets are typically made from thinner materials and have economy hardware such as cabinet door hinges and drawer slides. There are a few advantages with using stock cabinetry the very first one that comes to mind is cost.