Leonor Jordan Base Cabinets January 15th, 2018 - 10:34:14
In straight-run base-cabinets, one consideration that should be a priority is, if at all possible, to include "roll-outs" (variably called roll-out shelves, trays, etc.) factory-installed inside them; this is because "roll-outs" provide much better accessibility to items stored there (but, if your budget will only allow one roll-out per cabinet, be sure to place it on the cabinets bottom level). But, in case you happen to not be replacing perfectly fine base cabinets which do not have "roll-outs", all is not lost; that advantage can be added later via "inserts". And, if you are then unable to find "inserts" from a manufacturer, they can be self-built and installed.
Semi-custom cabinetry is also mass produced by the manufacturer. You do have a bit more flexibility here. You can be specific about the size of the cabinets and choose different finishes, moldings and trim. These cabinets will be installed by the dealer. Custom cabinets are specifically designed, manufactured and installed for you. While you have a larger variety to choose from, the term custom used here is really semi-custom. A true custom cabinet is possible by hiring a skilled cabinet maker. You will have infinite variety at considerable expense.
Place two C clamps in the first cabinet, lift the second cabinet into place and using the C clamps, firmly clamp the front face stile of the first cabinet to the second. The combination of the wall furring strip and the two clamps will allow you to let go and do the work of affixing the second cabinet to the wall and to each other. Making sure that the front faces are perfectly flush with each other and the heights are perfectly matched, standard practice is to pre-drill a screw hole behind the door hinge. Using drywall screws again, insert a screw in the hole making sure the screw will not penetrate through the stile of the other cabinet (too long). Place one screw behind each hinge. Now fasten the second cabinet to the wall and then release the clamps. This same scenario repeats itself until you reach the end of the cabinets. You may have spaces where a window occurs but your furring strip will assure that both sections are mounted at the same height.
Cost Each type of cabinet has a general budget that you can expect. Below are more details on each type and the expected price range for 10 x 10 standard cabinets. RTA cabinets are the least expensive. The frameless box and doors will be ¾ inch melamine and the drawers will have metal sides. Since you will be doing the installation, the cost of these is very low at approximately $70.00 per linear foot or $700.00 for your 10 x 10 standard. Stock cabinets have a major price increase with improved materials and they will be delivered and installed. The wood is generally ¾ inch hard board face frame and ½ inch particle board sides with hard board framed doors. Since you have a few more choices on finishes or stains, the price can range from $360 to $432 per linear foot or $3,600 to $4,320 for the standard measurements.