Hannah Skinner Base Cabinets January 04th, 2018 - 15:58:27
Cost Each type of cabinet has a general budget that you can expect. Below are more details on each type and the expected price range for 10 x 10 standard cabinets. RTA cabinets are the least expensive. The frameless box and doors will be ¾ inch melamine and the drawers will have metal sides. Since you will be doing the installation, the cost of these is very low at approximately $70.00 per linear foot or $700.00 for your 10 x 10 standard. Stock cabinets have a major price increase with improved materials and they will be delivered and installed. The wood is generally ¾ inch hard board face frame and ½ inch particle board sides with hard board framed doors. Since you have a few more choices on finishes or stains, the price can range from $360 to $432 per linear foot or $3,600 to $4,320 for the standard measurements.
Special Order Cabinets The upgrade from store cabinets would be ordering them from your local home improvement store or local lumberyard. Quality will be much noticeably higher than stock cabinets, but your options are still somewhat limited as to what you can order. Expect to see laminated interiors in either white or maple color, solid wood drawers and doors, and upgrades such as soft close hinges or soft close drawer slides. These cabinets will come finished and ready to install. Typically, these will be offered in all 3" increments, usually ranging from 12 inches wide to 36 or even 48 inches wide. Doors and drawer fronts may be somewhat customizable in terms of styles and colors, but options are still limited. Still expect 1/2" thick carcasses (the box part of the cabinets) and 1/8" to 1/4" thick cabinet backs.
In straight-run base-cabinets, one consideration that should be a priority is, if at all possible, to include "roll-outs" (variably called roll-out shelves, trays, etc.) factory-installed inside them; this is because "roll-outs" provide much better accessibility to items stored there (but, if your budget will only allow one roll-out per cabinet, be sure to place it on the cabinets bottom level). But, in case you happen to not be replacing perfectly fine base cabinets which do not have "roll-outs", all is not lost; that advantage can be added later via "inserts". And, if you are then unable to find "inserts" from a manufacturer, they can be self-built and installed.
If your cabinets have whats called a four inch high toe kick feature, you may have the option of cutting this four inch height down to offset a small difference in the floor heights. Be careful as cutting too much can make the cabinets look squat. If the cabinets came with a detached set of toe kicks already framed, this makes leveling a great deal easier as well. Just lay out the base cabinet supports and check to see if they are level. Some shimming or minor cutting to provide perfectly sub-bases makes the base cabinet installation a snap. You need not worry whether each cabinet is level as the bases will automatically make it so.