Mavis Mckinney Base Cabinets January 10th, 2018 - 19:25:49
This way you will not be searching for a stud while standing on a ladder and balancing a cabinet. It is a few minutes work well spent. Next remove all cabinet doors marking each one is marked as to which cabinets they belong too. If you are working alone, take a piece of one by two inch furring and screw it to the wall flush with the bottom of the upper cabinet mark. You will be able to rest the cabinet on the furring while you plumb the cabinet and fasten it to the wall. Starting with the first cabinet, go ahead and screw the cabinet securely to the studs using three inch drywall screws. You can countersink them or course or use screw washers depending on what you want the final appearance to be.
With the upper cabinets mounted go ahead and install the base cabinets in the exact same way. Each cabinet screwed side to side and then to the wall. Once all cabinets have been installed, go ahead and install your counter tops. Back splash work, electrical connections for micro waves or exhaust hoods and their actual installations should all be done before the doors are re-installed. You want to handle the doors gently as they are the major amount of what people actually see. Level the doors, install the drawer and door pulls and your done. Almost all municipalities require a building permit for this type of work as in a kitchen it involves plumbing, electrical, perhaps heating and possible structural changes as well. A garage set of work storage cabinets may not involve any of these items but be safe and ask first.
Installing cabinets whether in a kitchen, laundry or utility cabinets in a garage, they all have the same basic set of installation requirements. Some simple tools are required and are in most handymans tool pails. Pencils, good carpenters four foot level, tape measure, screw gun, several Quick type C clamps and a chalk line is a great start. If you have the use of a tripod with a builders level (or can rent one for a day) this will speed the work along greatly. Starting at either end of the cabinet set, make a pencil mark four feet above the floor. Now using the four foot level, transfer that mark along the wall to the other end of the cabinet run and make another pencil mark. Measure down to the floor to see if it is four feet above the floor. If it is exactly four feet, then your floor is level. If it is more than four feet then you know the floor slopes down towards that end. If you start the cabinets at that low end you will not be able to keep the cabinets level before you run "into " the floor. If you start at the four foot end that you started with, you will be able to shim the cabinets up so they all remain the same level height above the floor.
Semi-custom cabinets are usually ½ inch plywood with ¾ inch hardwood face frame and are delivered and installed. The drawers are dovetailed of ½ inch hardwood and doors are frame and panel hardwood. Prices range from $450 to $540 per linear foot or $4,500 to $5,400 for the 10 x 10 standard. Custom cabinets offer the same ½ inch plywood with ¾ inch hardwood face frame and are delivered and installed. The drawers are dovetailed of 5/8 inch hardwood and doors are frame and panel hardwood. Prices range from $1.200 to $1,400 per linear foot or $12,000 to $14,000 for standard measurements. Armed with these definitions and what they will mean to your kitchen remodel budget, you are now ready to look for your new cabinets.