Marla Woods Base Cabinets January 06th, 2018 - 14:36:00
Since a custom cabinet maker will be producing your new kitchen cabinets you can have them make just about any style that is imaginable. You can also have them produce cabinets that are in rare or exotic woods. You can also have a much larger selection of cabinet doors and drawer fronts. Some custom cabinet makers do opt to outsource their doors and drawer fronts, in this case they will usually have a very large catalog of doors for you to make your selection. With custom built cabinets you can select the type of hardware such as cabinet door hinges as well as drawer slides. Most are currently opting for hinges and drawer slides with the soft close feature. This is not only very popular but I wouldnt be surprise if this becomes the standard in the next few years.
Each and every thing about the cabinets starting from designs of the cabinets to the material and finishing that should be used in manufacturing; all is decided by the person who wants the custom based design. Measurements of these cabinets are open ended so that you can decide the design and the lengths and widths of the cabinets according to the length of the wall. The material required for custom made cabinets can be the same as for the stock cabinets but you can also choose lead time that lasts longer than the material used for stock cabinets. Solid wood is preferred to make these cabinets. There are some advantages and disadvantages of both. The stock cabinets are available immediately and their variety is vast too but they have limited sizes and they last for a small time. On the other hand, the custom cabinets are available in free sizes as required by the user. The only problem is that the custom cabinets are a lot expensive than the stock cabinets.
Place two C clamps in the first cabinet, lift the second cabinet into place and using the C clamps, firmly clamp the front face stile of the first cabinet to the second. The combination of the wall furring strip and the two clamps will allow you to let go and do the work of affixing the second cabinet to the wall and to each other. Making sure that the front faces are perfectly flush with each other and the heights are perfectly matched, standard practice is to pre-drill a screw hole behind the door hinge. Using drywall screws again, insert a screw in the hole making sure the screw will not penetrate through the stile of the other cabinet (too long). Place one screw behind each hinge. Now fasten the second cabinet to the wall and then release the clamps. This same scenario repeats itself until you reach the end of the cabinets. You may have spaces where a window occurs but your furring strip will assure that both sections are mounted at the same height.
Once the sub-bases for the lower cabinets are set, I recommend that you install the upper cabinets next as it is just plain easier. Once the wider base cabinets are installed it is harder to work on the narrower upper cabinets. Just measure up from the sub-base to get the top of the cabinets, add the counter thickness, add the space you want between the lower and upper cabinets (typically eighteen inches) and make a pencil mark. That is the bottom of your upper cabinets. Since your sub-base is level, just transfer the upper cabinet mark all along the run and you will have mark to set the bottom of each upper cabinet. Next locate all the wall studs and make a vertical mark using your level that will protrude both above and below the cabinets.