Anastasia Burns Base Cabinets January 08th, 2018 - 10:25:55
Once the sub-bases for the lower cabinets are set, I recommend that you install the upper cabinets next as it is just plain easier. Once the wider base cabinets are installed it is harder to work on the narrower upper cabinets. Just measure up from the sub-base to get the top of the cabinets, add the counter thickness, add the space you want between the lower and upper cabinets (typically eighteen inches) and make a pencil mark. That is the bottom of your upper cabinets. Since your sub-base is level, just transfer the upper cabinet mark all along the run and you will have mark to set the bottom of each upper cabinet. Next locate all the wall studs and make a vertical mark using your level that will protrude both above and below the cabinets.
But what do you do when you are fitting cabinets between two walls? Well in this case the cabinet dealer can supply you with filler pieces to take up any large gaps that will eventually occur by using cabinets that are built within 2 inch increments. These cabinet filler pieces can be cut to fit the remaining gap relatively well. The main disadvantage with stock kitchen cabinets is the aforementioned incremental sizing but also the quality. Although as with anything the lower to mid range priced stock cabinets are typically made from thinner materials and have economy hardware such as cabinet door hinges and drawer slides. There are a few advantages with using stock cabinetry the very first one that comes to mind is cost.
Beginning with base corner cabinets, we have: (1) the symmetrical easy reach -- this cabinet is the same length on each side of the corner and contains either shelves along its rear walls or a carousel with shelves "pie-cut" to accommodate the doors (a center hinge allows opening either the first door or both); (2) the asymmetircal easy reach -- this cabinet is a little shorter on one leg (if it includes a carousel, that diameter will be the length of the cabinets shorter leg); (3) the revolving -- this cabinet is like cabinet #1 but its doors revolve with the carousel shelves; (4) the diagonal-front -- this cabinet allows a full-circle carousel; and (5) the blind -- this cabinet looks like a straight-run cabinet but it extends into the corner along the side of an adjoining cabinet, structure, or appliance thus making its "buried" shelves accessible only from the front door (to allow better use of the "blind" corner cabinet, some manufacturers have cleverly created a cabinet with a first section which, on opening the door, pulls out and pivots to the side to expose roll-out trays which can then move forward to present their contents). Finally, there is a sink base corner cabinet that can be either an "L-shaped" cabinet to hold a butterfly sink or a diagonal-front cabinet with a regular straight-line sink -- a caveat whenever a corner sink cabinet is used: be sure that adequate standing area (for loading and unloading the dishwasher) is created by placing a 12-inch wide regular cabinet between the dishwasher and the corner cabinets side.
Stock cabinets are already manufactured as for samples for the customers in standard sizes so that they get an idea about what designs are available and how the stock cabinets look. If we speak about the thickness of the stock cabinets, they are nine inches wide. Height of these cabinets is about thirty to thirty-three inches. These cabinets are built as samples for the customers to have an idea about the stock variety available at the shop. For the manufacturing of these cabinets, plywood and melamine is used. Each part of the cabinet is made accurately and efficiently and when all the pieces are built then they are finally joined together to form a full fledge cabinet. Custom Cabinets Now comes the turn of the custom kitchen cabinets. These cabinets are made according to the customers specifications and requirements.