Juliet Moody Base Cabinets December 21st, 2017 - 00:10:09
If your cabinets have whats called a four inch high toe kick feature, you may have the option of cutting this four inch height down to offset a small difference in the floor heights. Be careful as cutting too much can make the cabinets look squat. If the cabinets came with a detached set of toe kicks already framed, this makes leveling a great deal easier as well. Just lay out the base cabinet supports and check to see if they are level. Some shimming or minor cutting to provide perfectly sub-bases makes the base cabinet installation a snap. You need not worry whether each cabinet is level as the bases will automatically make it so.
Why Bathroom Linen Cabinets? Huge homes and apartments have inbuilt storage space for the household items in every room. The bathrooms are well planned and designed to accommodate the toiletries such as soap, towels, comb, linen, and other accessories. If not in the bathroom, a storage rack or shelf is built somewhere in the passage adjoining the toilets or passages leading to the bathroom. But what about smaller apartments and houses where the number of people are more and the space is quite less?
If you are remodeling your kitchen (or building anew), you may need to choose a corner cabinet although not all kitchens need them.For example, a "galley" kitchen is called that because the walls (holding cabinets and appliances) that make up the kitchen face each other and, therefore, preclude the need for corner cabinets. Another possible arrangement in this vein would be an "L-shaped" kitchen with a straight-run of cabinets along one wall and another straight-run of cabinets on a wall that is perpendicular to it but separated from it by a doorway or floor-to-ceiling window. Cabinets installed in a straight run do not pose the variety of choices that corner cabinets do; therefore, if your new kitchen, bathroom, or office needs a corner cabinet, having a list of the types of corner cabinets currently available should help you make an educated choice in their shape and size.
Place two C clamps in the first cabinet, lift the second cabinet into place and using the C clamps, firmly clamp the front face stile of the first cabinet to the second. The combination of the wall furring strip and the two clamps will allow you to let go and do the work of affixing the second cabinet to the wall and to each other. Making sure that the front faces are perfectly flush with each other and the heights are perfectly matched, standard practice is to pre-drill a screw hole behind the door hinge. Using drywall screws again, insert a screw in the hole making sure the screw will not penetrate through the stile of the other cabinet (too long). Place one screw behind each hinge. Now fasten the second cabinet to the wall and then release the clamps. This same scenario repeats itself until you reach the end of the cabinets. You may have spaces where a window occurs but your furring strip will assure that both sections are mounted at the same height.