Jeannine Campbell Base Cabinets January 12th, 2018 - 10:55:45
Place two C clamps in the first cabinet, lift the second cabinet into place and using the C clamps, firmly clamp the front face stile of the first cabinet to the second. The combination of the wall furring strip and the two clamps will allow you to let go and do the work of affixing the second cabinet to the wall and to each other. Making sure that the front faces are perfectly flush with each other and the heights are perfectly matched, standard practice is to pre-drill a screw hole behind the door hinge. Using drywall screws again, insert a screw in the hole making sure the screw will not penetrate through the stile of the other cabinet (too long). Place one screw behind each hinge. Now fasten the second cabinet to the wall and then release the clamps. This same scenario repeats itself until you reach the end of the cabinets. You may have spaces where a window occurs but your furring strip will assure that both sections are mounted at the same height.
With the upper cabinets mounted go ahead and install the base cabinets in the exact same way. Each cabinet screwed side to side and then to the wall. Once all cabinets have been installed, go ahead and install your counter tops. Back splash work, electrical connections for micro waves or exhaust hoods and their actual installations should all be done before the doors are re-installed. You want to handle the doors gently as they are the major amount of what people actually see. Level the doors, install the drawer and door pulls and your done. Almost all municipalities require a building permit for this type of work as in a kitchen it involves plumbing, electrical, perhaps heating and possible structural changes as well. A garage set of work storage cabinets may not involve any of these items but be safe and ask first.
The most important part of buying them is to measure, measure, measure! Measure the length and width of cabinet doors. If you are installing entirely cabinets, measure depth. Measure your ceiling height. Understand that newer houses tend to have higher ceilings; it may be architecturally impossible to support having tall 42 inch cabinets installed in your old kitchen. But dont worry, a solution can be had for all cabinet spaces- as long as you remember to measure properly. Why the emphasis on measurements? Consider the consequences of inaccurate measuring- crookedly hung cabinets, improperly cabinet doors that dont open properly, or worse, you purchased your kitchen cabinets online and now cannot obtain a refund.
In straight-run base-cabinets, one consideration that should be a priority is, if at all possible, to include "roll-outs" (variably called roll-out shelves, trays, etc.) factory-installed inside them; this is because "roll-outs" provide much better accessibility to items stored there (but, if your budget will only allow one roll-out per cabinet, be sure to place it on the cabinets bottom level). But, in case you happen to not be replacing perfectly fine base cabinets which do not have "roll-outs", all is not lost; that advantage can be added later via "inserts". And, if you are then unable to find "inserts" from a manufacturer, they can be self-built and installed.